New York vs. London Spring Summer 2019: Which Fashion Week Did It Better?

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fashion, fashion brand, Fashion Business, fashion designer, fashion entrepreneur, fashion label, Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, New York fashion week, startup fashion brand, style, trends

Fashion trends are as fleeting as the lovely vase of roses at home that holds so much promise on day one, only to give up entirely on day three. However, isn’t that what we love? The sheer variety that each season brings to the runway is outdone only by the street styles that are so often on display.

New York and London fashion Weeks are no different. They’re well behind us now, but there are a few key fashion trends we can garner from both. At the same time, both events were also reflective of the current mood of the city they were hosted in- New York went bold and inclusive, while London did subtlety and understatement very well. Without further ado, here’s what we liked and disliked about both events.

What We Liked:  

1. The colors: Both Prabal Gurung at New York Fashion Week and Victoria Beckham at London Fashion Week did not shy away from amping up the color palette just a little bit. We loved Gurung’s interpretation of colors into some very tropical designs. Mrs. Beckham, on the other hand, brought some much-needed pop of color to the Londoner’s wardrobe. Are we seeing a cultural shift here?

2. Gender benders: We noticed a lot of designs in the New York Fashion Week that could have done just as well on men as they looked on the women. Androgyny is not a new concept, but this is the first time we’re seeing possibilities for the men as well. London, on the other hand, was much more conservative, and the surprises came mostly in the form of a versatile collection from traditionally niche designers like Burberry.

3. A touch of the new: We still stand by the fact that New York, as a city, is much more expressive than London. Perhaps, as a result, New York’s runways were dominated by elements beyond the visual. Dresses with sound details such as the Paco Rabanne collection took the drama one notch up. That’s one way to get noticed, we think. London, however, lacked such standout elements and more collections were geared towards the practical elements such as wearability.

4. Utility: Actual utility was high on every designer’s list at London. We attribute it to the economy that is floundering back to stability after Brexit, and really has no use for outrageousness. We spotted many more complete outfits in patterns that are far easier to carry off on the street as much as at an event.

5. The return of high fashion: Inspired by the royal wedding, several designers at London have gone after high-street dressing. Christopher Kane’s collection of classic, high-neck silhouettes is just one example. Erdem, too, followed suit.

6. Making everyday look beautiful: In contrast to London’s current demand for royal-wedding-worthy dresses, New York saw a spate of clothes that would be perfect wherever they’re taken. Both Tadashi Shoji and Rebecca Minkoff are proof of that.

All in all, while we loved certain aspects of both Fashion Weeks, there is no denying the fact that New York was higher on the fashion and versatility aspects, while London fared better on the usability of looks. That’s why we love back-to-back fashion events- they give us a chance to take the best from both worlds (or cities, in this case).

What We Disliked:  

We’re just glad that this was one season where the dislikes were far fewer and scattered in between some really stunning hits.

In both fashion weeks, we noticed a clear lack of usable accessorizing. When it did exist, it was sparse and barely noticeable. A great look can be trashed by the wrong accessory. Another aspect where we expected better was the scope for using a variety of different fabrics. Some designers managed to do this and excelled with some very good results (like Naeem Khan at NYFW and David Coma at LFW). But, there was scope to do so much more, as you’ll see from our Spring Summer trend forecast. 

However, that’s all we could find to complain about, and that in itself is saying something, isn’t it?

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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The Home Of Haute Couture: Design Highlights From Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019

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Christian dior, couture designer, design house, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, fashion biz, fashion blog, fashion blogger, fashion brands, Fashion Business, fashion designers, fashion forecasting, fashion trends, Fashion Week, Fendi, Gucci, Max Mara, MFW, Milan Fashion Week, Missoni, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli, runway fashion, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sportmax, Spring Summer 2019, style, Versace

Move over New York and London- Milan has just made its most iconic fashion splash yet. There’s something about the spunky vibe of Milan, on and off its runways, that has made this the destination to watch when keeping an eye out for the bigger fashion houses. We think there’s a lot to be learned and implemented from the Dior and Versace of the world, and being one-of-a-kind is just one of them.

Here’s a compilation of designers and clothes we loved the most at Milan this year. Designers with ambition, take note.

1. Gucci: When Gucci makes a statement, heads turn. Almost singlehandedly, Gucci took clothing from overtly suggestive to plain old, yet standout styles. One look at the whites and tans paired with signature motifs shows us that some fashion houses are more about subtle experimentation than others. The sleeves are the ones standing tall this time around.

2. Christian Dior: When Dior’s in love with mesh, we know that the trend is here to stay. Casual is the name of the game for SS19, and what better way to do it than with one element in each outfit that grabs attention? We particularly love the understated elegance of the models themselves, allowing us to see outfits as they should be. We could take that blue top right there and think of ten different bottoms we can pair it with, using items already in the wardrobe. Now, that is versatility.

3. Fendi: Fendi is one brand that knows how to have fun in the subtlest of ways. The Milan SS19 runway was full of looks ideal for the workplace, and even better for drinks after. These are clothes you can take to meetings and to holidays with equal panache. Peplum gets a new definition that the world will soon come to love, and we’re not complaining about the very versatile handbag/ phone holder/ fanny pack accessory either. In fact, give us just that.

4. Emporio Armani: Armani gets a bit of a ‘not-so-couture’ rep, we think, because of the number of cheap fakes doing the rounds the world over. Imitation is the best form of flattery, so it is safe to assume that everyone adores this label. One look at the shiny jackets that imitate everything from animal skin to a backpack shows us that Giorgio Armani has the uncanny talent for drawing inspiration from just about everything and turning it into some gorgeously wearable works of art.

5. Missoni: It was a relief to see Missoni on the runway, partly because of the dresses that are everyday-casual, and mostly because of the mesh detail done differently. When you’ve had too much mesh, turn to Missoni for some fashionable relief. The careful placement of prints and flowy silhouettes are made for the modern day Bohemian.

6. Roberto Cavalli: What’s with the free-spirited vibes, everyone! Fashion labels always channel the mood of the season, and going by the Cavalli designs, 2019 looks like an excellent year for travel and exploration. Mirror work is not a Middle-Eastern trend alone anymore and can be adapted in the most diverse of ways. For those looking for more subtle statements, foil prints are in, too.

7. Max Mara: Add Max Mara to the list of formal wear collections we absolutely love. The pants are getting shorter, keeping in mind the very diverse jobs that women today hold. These outfits are meant for action in the boardroom. The frills, the colors, the polka dots, the statement belts…we could just go on and on with the little details from this collection that everyone can find a way to adapt into their designs.

8. Moschino: As the ‘LOVE MOSCHINO’ bags prove, this is one label that is not afraid to stand out every single time. And so it is with the Milan Fashion Week Collection. Why say jackets need to be held together with buttons alone? That red dress is going to make a lot of red carpet appearances soon, and a bralette in lace? Yes, please! Moschino’s prints are so commonplace yet so hard to replicate. Standing out and blending in, both are done right in this collection.

9. Versace: Swearing allegiance by florals, Versace has a whole new take on them. Out go embroidered flowers, and in they come in black instead. A base of bright colors adds a significant contrast to a collection that otherwise risks fading out. Versace is known for exploring a woman’s sensuality like no other designer ever can, and the lace camisoles and thigh-high slits, artfully covered in long jackets, prove that point once again.

10. Sportmax: A trip to the Hamptons next year is going to be woefully incomplete without at least one piece from the Sportmax collection. These clothes are what you wear when you head off to a game of golf, or lounging by the beach. Some of the elements like the sleeves are clearly drawn from Scuba gear, while others are more suited to cocktails and sunset. Either way, being outdoors is not going to be the same anymore, and you don’t have to play a sport to be part of the game.

11. Salvatore Ferragamo: The colors of the outdoors are well-represented in the SS19 collection from the house of Ferragamo. These are beiges and tans that have been carefully chosen to represent the outdoors in as understated manner as possible. Paired with tropical prints in similar shades, it works magic simply by complementing the wearer’s skin tone beautifully.

12. Dolce & Gabbana: Occasion wear has been done right with D&G once again. Here’s one design house that is loud, and unabashedly so. Operatic themes are evident, as are carnivals. Suits in gold and silver are most definitely gothic, as are doodle prints with lace. Channeling a bit of the dark side are the corsets and fringes, both of which remind us of Hotel California. With that collection, D&G takes a bow like no other house managed to this time around.

Which of these designers did you absolutely love? What are some details that you’ll be taking away from Milan and into your collections? Tell us in the comments.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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The Quick How-To for Creating Mood Boards

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#fashiondesigner, #fashionstartup, #moodboard, brandconsultant, colorpalette, conceptboard, creative, fashion, fashionbiz, fashionbrand, Fashionbusiness, fashionconsultant, fashiondesignprocess, inspiration, silhouette, style, trends

A mood board is one of the essential communication pieces in the fashion design process. It can be used both within teams and with external partners to bring alive the concept of a design. Mood boards are fairly popular in the fashion industry, but creative agencies from all walks lean on them to explain their ideas to clients.

Not designing a mood board can be a mistake of the same proportions as some of the others we discussed earlier, and can cause your team to run around in circles.

In this article, we cover the five primary elements of a mood board and how you can create an impactful one.

1) The mood of the collection: This forms the basis of your color choices, as well as your designs. For example, hearing ‘urban desert’ immediately inspires ideas filled with muted greens and browns, while ‘floral’ evokes an equally distinct image. Choose the mood of your collection carefully- it becomes the basis for all design decisions.

Mood board created by Fuel4Fashion, inspired from the Minimalism lifestyle for SS’18 women’s start-up fashion brand.

2) Concept board: The concept board is the idea behind the idea. ‘Floral’ is a concept. ‘Active wear’ is a concept. The concept board details which aspects of a design to highlight and which ones to assign a second priority to.

Concept board created by Fuel4Fashion, inspired from the Minimalism lifestyle for SS’18 women’s start-up fashion brand.

3) Style board: A loose crop top or a well-fitted blouse? Should trousers be narrow cut or broader? A style board defines the aspects of your collection that will eventually drive who will buy it. Indeed, most brands have a clear target audience and design exclusively for their body type.

Silhouette board created by Fuel4Fashion, inspired from the Minimalism lifestyle for SS’18 women’s start-up fashion brand.

4) Color Board: Be sure to use the right swaps and choose your colors carefully before they go into a mass product. The color palette you select underlines the entire collection. Not getting a shade just right can ruin the whole process. Having a fixed color palette solves the problem.

Color board created by Fuel4Fashion, inspired from the Minimalism lifestyle for SS’18 women’s start-up fashion brand.

5) Collection planning: This aspect determines how many pieces of a category you wish to have. For example, you may choose to design ten blouses, five skirts, three trousers and two accessories. Use past buying trends to of your customers to make these choices.

6) Optional: Artwork Inspiration: You can choose the art forms that you want to see represented in your collection. These can further be translated on to clothes through embroidery, sequins, digital prints, etc.

Creating A Mood Board :  When creating a mood board, think of these elements- your reference imagery, colors, and typography. The last one may not seem too critical, but it often offers that extra dash of inspiration for your team.

Recap of complete Mood Board created by Fuel4Fashion for SS’18, women’s casual wear collection for startup fashion brand

While both digital and physical mood boards are in use today, you can choose the format that serves your purpose best. If you have elements of embroidery and other work involved, a physical board may be ideal.

Experiment with different layouts for your images. Even the way an image is laid out (in a grid, triangular, scattered) in itself can represent the essence of your collection. So spend some time thinking through the layout.

Lastly, use color and type to highlight your ideas and give them new life. Today, there are many fonts and styles you can experiment with. Use those elements that add to your central them and do not distract from it.

On the whole, think through who your user base is. Whom is this mood board being designed to help? Design with their perspective in mind, and you are sure to succeed.

Also, are you following our inspiration cards on Instagram? If you find them thought-provoking, be sure to add them to your mood board and let us know!

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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What is a Tech Pack and How to Create One…

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apparel, apparel manufacturing vendors, apparel production, Fashion Business, fashion designers, fashion illustrations, fashion startup, garment, garment files, garment manufacturing, measurement charts, patterns, sizing, start up fashion brands, start up fashion labels, style, technical design, technical designers, technical specifications, technology, techpack, what is techpack

Anybody looking at the fashion industry from the outside sees a lot of creativity and glamour. But behind the glitzy glamor and the creative capabilities lies a tremendous amount of hard work and effort. Those of us who enter the world of fashion entrepreneurship soon realize this. Fashion design does not just start and end at the drawing board. Just like a beautiful monument without plans detailing every minute element, or a race car without an exact engineering drawing, garments cannot move from the concept to the production stage without a tech pack.

What is a tech pack? It is to a fashion designer what a building plan is to an architect – a complete map of the product to be created. A tech pack essentially converts your design from a dreamy concept into a practical piece of clothing that can be produced, in small or large quantities. It tells a garment manufacturer what elements need to be included and where, the type, quality and dimensions of the fabric and other elements

Tunic techpack for a women’s casual wear brand.

A good tech pack consists of a combination of images and measurements, made in such a way that every detail of the garment is captured. It usually consists of:

• The flat sketch of a garment from front and back, with close-ups of the complicated sections
• Details for the stitching, fabric, trims and embellishments. This may include details of the suppliers as well, and can include a swatch of the fabric as well as samples of the embellishments such as lace, buttons, etc.
• Measurements of all the important dimensions including the size of any added portions or cutaways.
• Details of the embroidery, print, patterns and labels to be used.
• Packaging instructions

With a tech pack, a designer need not be present during the entire manufacturing process, and the garment manufacturer can execute production of the sample and final order to specifications. Be sure to include as many details as possible. A good tech pack will help you with grading, pattern making, calculating cost and yield of the material and determine your approximate cost of production.

At times, modifications may be required due to technical constraints in the production process. These changes are incorporated in the tech pack and the new one is used, just as building plans may change marginally when construction is in progress to account for unforeseen obstacles. Keeping the tech pack updated ensures everyone has a clear idea of what needs to be done.

Unlike fashion design concepts, tech packs are purely technical tools with strict guidelines. However, it is essential for any designer to be able to create a tech pack, so that you know the intricacies of the design. This makes it easier for you to guide the factory and ensure that the garment created meets your requirements. You can create a tech pack using tools like Adobe Illustrator, or work with a technical designer like Fuel4Fashion, who will convert your sketches and concepts into production-ready tech packs.

With a tech pack, you are now armed and ready to convert your concepts into a physical garment that the world can wear and flaunt. If you need any help, do get in touch with me at here with your queries.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer, Sourcing and Manufacturing Consultant helping fashion brands to plan, design and develop new collections with small quantity garment manufacturing. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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Growing Your Fashion Label Basics: Design Studio vs. Freelancers

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creative, fashion, fashion designers, fashion illustrations, fashion sketches, freelance fashion designer, Fuel4Fashion virtual design studio, global fashion designers, global platform, new fashion brands, pattern, Product design, start up fashion labels, style, trends, upcoming fashion designers, Virtual Fashion Design Studio

The Relative Merits of Using a Fashion Studio vs. Independent Fashion Designers

As an upcoming fashion label, you would want designs that are cutting-edge, attractive and can make a mark against established brands. Price is a factor and hence you need to ensure that your costs in designing and producing your collection are kept within your budget. One of the ways to do that effectively has been to outsource the designing work to freelance designers. With platforms like Elance and Freelancer, it is possible to find hundreds of freelance designers who will work with you to create your fashion collection at a fraction of the cost that an in-house full-fledged design team would require. And you will be able to interact with them directly, so getting your ideas across is simplified. You will also get more personalized attention from a freelancer.

Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/R44vWt

While you are likely to find a number of good designers on these platforms, identifying them can be a difficult task, involving contacting dozens of them and filtering the ones that you can get along with. At the same time, you have very little guarantee that the freelancer will deliver the work as per your timelines and specifications, since (s)he is usually a lone worker with no backup. Fledgling fashion labels on tight timelines can be stuck at the mercy of such freelancers.

So what is the solution? What you would ideally be looking for is a combination of the best parts of both sides. You would like the reassurance of a talented designer team that can be selected and deliver as per your design brief in a short time. At the same time, you would like to keep your costs low and have the assurance of an experienced professional handling the project. With virtual design platforms like fuel4Fashion, you can get both.

Fuel4Fashion is a virtual design studio that brings together talented design professionals from across the world, giving you a diverse talent pool from which you can choose who would work on your project. You get a chance to view their previous work, and have the assurance that a team of experienced professionals is managing the design process at an affordable cost. The additional advantage is that you get a variety of designs that you might not find in your local talent pool – African prints, bright Latin American colour combinations, and the style and cut of sophisticated European design houses become possible with this platform. You are assured of timely project completion, access to new ideas and efficient communication that ensures the outcome is as good as, if not better than what you visualized.

Image courtesy: http://www.fuel4fashion.com/about-us.html

While working with both freelancers and agencies have their respective advantages and shortcomings, using a virtual design studio like Fuel4Fashion gives you the best of both. This will ensure that your fashion label will make a strong impact and yet you keep your creative costs within control.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion, the first virtual design studio that caters to new and upcoming fashion design labels with a diverse portfolio of design services. She is a member of the Cherie Blair Foundation’s Women Entrepreneurship Program and has over a decade of fashion industry experience with international labels and start-ups.

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Celebrity Fashion Icon ~ Lady GaGa ~

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apparels, blog, bubble dress, dress, fashion blog, fashion designers, fashion icon, fashion sense, fashionesta, frog dress, Lady Gaga, meat dress, style, trendsetter, weirdest outfit

Lady gaga is not a stranger to the fashion world. She and her experimenting ways with her dresses always drew attention. Be it frog dress or bubble dress lady gaga knows how to generate the buzz.  Her taste in fashion gets appreciated for the freshness and at the same time it’s very sassy and bold. Her raunchy, over-the-top attitude has landed her on the list of most sought after celebrity for outstanding fashion sense.

meat suit in a meat-suit
Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/y4mE9z

This sexy avatar of lady gaga drew immense media coverage and people wondered how can one store beef like that? The answer is- that outfit which was made of Argentine beef was kept stored in a meat locker and later it was placed in chemicals. Then it was dried by a team of taxidermists for several months to get it ready for the lady herself. The dress was painted to make sure that the meat looked fresh. This is the amount of dedication that she puts in to make her look outstanding.

In another outfit lady gaga wore frogs all over and raised the bar of her fashion sense to the next level.

Cinderella pretty
Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/DK3gRX

This beautiful dress matched with perfect shoes and the hand accessory completed the GaGa look of Lady GaGa.  Another jaw dropping dress of her was the bubble dress.  That dresses with fitted with a small bubble blowing machine and it left a trail of bubbles when she stepped out in it. The machine was fitted in a while mini dress. Her fans were mesmerized with her this quirky costume.

bubble dress
Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/UNULih

This was also a unique dress which had bubbles all over it.  Another show stopper outfits that ‘Gagaed’ on her behalf.

Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/vo9fwa
Bubble Dress Part II

These are among the hundreds of wild dresses that Lady GaGa wore that made her a real fashionista in someone’s opinion and a fancy dress contestant in else’s opinion. What do you think?

A new beginning…

Tags

active sportswear, business, clients, concepts, creative, freelance fashion designer, style, Supriya Ghurye, trends

Welcome fashion aspirants and industry watchers to the Fuel4Fashion blog. Fuel4Fashion as an entity is nearly four years old, but my fashion industry journey began over a decade ago. In the period, the experiences and opportunities that came my way have helped shape Fuel4Fashion into the independent fashion design entity that it is today. The journey ahead is in many ways more exciting and challenging, and this blog will help me document the way Fuel4Fashion evolves within the international fashion design ecology.

Starting with a single client in November 2009, Fuel4Fashion today caters to an increasing number of clients looking for a freelance fashion designer and fashion industry consulting and advice. Clients span a number of segments from mainstream casualwear for men and women to active sportswear, maternity clothing and even ethnic designs with contemporary flavours from across the world. All these inputs have helped shape design thinking and the design process at Fuel4Fashion. In the coming posts, I will try to document the journey of fashion from the past unto the future and how it evolves as time goes by.

It is my ardent wish that the thoughts and ideas that guide my fashion thinking be of use to all of you in expanding your knowledge of this uniquely creative world. We begin with a brief history of fashion starting from the 1920s and going forward into the future. So do keep an eye out for the next post. Cheers!