What is a Tech Pack and How to Create One…

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apparel, apparel manufacturing vendors, apparel production, Fashion Business, fashion designers, fashion illustrations, fashion startup, garment, garment files, garment manufacturing, measurement charts, patterns, sizing, start up fashion brands, start up fashion labels, style, technical design, technical designers, technical specifications, technology, techpack, what is techpack

Anybody looking at the fashion industry from the outside sees a lot of creativity and glamour. But behind the glitzy glamor and the creative capabilities lies a tremendous amount of hard work and effort. Those of us who enter the world of fashion entrepreneurship soon realize this. Fashion design does not just start and end at the drawing board. Just like a beautiful monument without plans detailing every minute element, or a race car without an exact engineering drawing, garments cannot move from the concept to the production stage without a tech pack.

What is a tech pack? It is to a fashion designer what a building plan is to an architect – a complete map of the product to be created. A tech pack essentially converts your design from a dreamy concept into a practical piece of clothing that can be produced, in small or large quantities. It tells a garment manufacturer what elements need to be included and where, the type, quality and dimensions of the fabric and other elements

Tunic techpack for a women’s casual wear brand.

A good tech pack consists of a combination of images and measurements, made in such a way that every detail of the garment is captured. It usually consists of:

• The flat sketch of a garment from front and back, with close-ups of the complicated sections
• Details for the stitching, fabric, trims and embellishments. This may include details of the suppliers as well, and can include a swatch of the fabric as well as samples of the embellishments such as lace, buttons, etc.
• Measurements of all the important dimensions including the size of any added portions or cutaways.
• Details of the embroidery, print, patterns and labels to be used.
• Packaging instructions

With a tech pack, a designer need not be present during the entire manufacturing process, and the garment manufacturer can execute production of the sample and final order to specifications. Be sure to include as many details as possible. A good tech pack will help you with grading, pattern making, calculating cost and yield of the material and determine your approximate cost of production.

At times, modifications may be required due to technical constraints in the production process. These changes are incorporated in the tech pack and the new one is used, just as building plans may change marginally when construction is in progress to account for unforeseen obstacles. Keeping the tech pack updated ensures everyone has a clear idea of what needs to be done.

Unlike fashion design concepts, tech packs are purely technical tools with strict guidelines. However, it is essential for any designer to be able to create a tech pack, so that you know the intricacies of the design. This makes it easier for you to guide the factory and ensure that the garment created meets your requirements. You can create a tech pack using tools like Adobe Illustrator, or work with a technical designer like Fuel4Fashion, who will convert your sketches and concepts into production-ready tech packs.

With a tech pack, you are now armed and ready to convert your concepts into a physical garment that the world can wear and flaunt. If you need any help, do get in touch with me at here with your queries.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer, Sourcing and Manufacturing Consultant helping fashion brands to plan, design and develop new collections with small quantity garment manufacturing. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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The garment production process.

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apparels, assembly line, cutter, cutting, fabric, fashion blog, finishing, freelance fashion designer, garment, garments, KEYWORDS: Purchase order, marker, sewing, spreader, Supriya Ghurye, tech pack

In our previous blog we talked about fashion design and new product development, so by now you are aware of the different stages, the garment undergoes before it moves into bulk production.  Let us also peep into the manufacturing units where these garments are processed.

On order confirmation, buyer gives a Purchase order containing stylewise booked quantity with a colorwise and sizewise break up, delivery date to freight forwarder and Dc date, final negotiated cost at which quantity is booked and mode of delivery.

Flow chart of a garment manufacturing process.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/KAsJd5

Time and action plan is prepared based on delivery date. This involves a backward planning from DC date accounting for a lead time for production (cutting, sewing, finishing, washing) based on quantity and capacity slot available at the production unit. Then fabric lead time is estimated depending on fabric order quantity. Lead time for value addition and embroidery processes are also taken into consideration while mapping the T&A.

Fabric consumption is calculated based on quantities booked for production by buyer. Markers are laid out based on sizewise requirement. Marker efficiency is optimized to minimize wastages in terms of fabric and cutting costs. Consequently total fabric consumption is deduced colorwise and bulk order is placed with fabric vendors.

The process that was followed for vendor selection for garment, the same process is followed for fabric vendor selection. Similar samples are submitted to apparel manufacturing vendor in forms of desklooms and fabric swatches. If the buyer has nominated the fabric vendor, then the apparel vendor directly proceeds with bulk fabric order skipping the process of vendor selection

The apparel vendor in turn sends the samples to buyer nominated lab for testing to analyse if it is meeting all requirements and is devoid of any restricted chemicals. Fabric samples are subjected to physical and chemical tests. Lab dips are analyzed for exact shade matching as per buyer’s requirement. Post this, bulk fabric order is placed

Trims requirement is also calculated and order is processed in similar manner after a series of approvals. Thread consumption is worked out based on sample measurements and lab dips are submitted to ensure thread matching with bulk fabric.

Once the bulk fabric starts getting inwarded, it is washed at a pre regulated temperature and conditions. Then it is spread on to cutting tables using automatic spreaders that piles the fabric depending on its nap. Automated cutters/laser cutter which are preloaded with marker cut the garments.

With a pilot run of initial garments, the sewing line is set for bulk production. Garment manufacturing takes place in several  methods: assembly line, modular, batch production depending on the garment under construction. The most suitable method is proposed by Industrial Engineering team.

Assembly line in a garment manufacturing factory.
Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/onIaLp

Most common is assembly line where different parts of garments are sewn by different operators and finally assembled into the final garment.

Simulation model preview of sewing line.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/DqvprC

There are several inline and end line checks that are conducted to ensure the accuracy of measurements, processes.

Garment construction it is a rigorous process that involves a trail of operators who work on specialized machines and give shape to the final garment..

The garments are scanned by the quality checker who checks each garment with the tech pack. In case of slightest flaw, it is returned back to the line for rework.

Along with inhouse QC, external audits are also conducted.

Flow chart of quality check process in a garment manufacturing unit.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/l7krvG

Then the garment undergoes a series of finishing procedures from thread cutting to pressing, setting into right shape.

Finally the garments are packaged as per packing instructions provided by the buyer and contained in cartons and made ready for delivery to freight forwarder (FF) along with all the documentation.

From FF, goods are shipped or aired depending on the mode mutually decided by buyer and vendor.

The story does not end here!!! Keep waiting for the next blog where we will talk about how this merchandise moves to our nearest retail outlet and what all planning goes into it.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer, Sourcing and Manufacturing Consultant helping fashion brands to plan, design and develop new collections with small quantity garment manufacturing. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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