New York vs. London Spring Summer 2019: Which Fashion Week Did It Better?

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fashion, fashion brand, Fashion Business, fashion designer, fashion entrepreneur, fashion label, Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, New York fashion week, startup fashion brand, style, trends

Fashion trends are as fleeting as the lovely vase of roses at home that holds so much promise on day one, only to give up entirely on day three. However, isn’t that what we love? The sheer variety that each season brings to the runway is outdone only by the street styles that are so often on display.

New York and London fashion Weeks are no different. They’re well behind us now, but there are a few key fashion trends we can garner from both. At the same time, both events were also reflective of the current mood of the city they were hosted in- New York went bold and inclusive, while London did subtlety and understatement very well. Without further ado, here’s what we liked and disliked about both events.

What We Liked:  

1. The colors: Both Prabal Gurung at New York Fashion Week and Victoria Beckham at London Fashion Week did not shy away from amping up the color palette just a little bit. We loved Gurung’s interpretation of colors into some very tropical designs. Mrs. Beckham, on the other hand, brought some much-needed pop of color to the Londoner’s wardrobe. Are we seeing a cultural shift here?

2. Gender benders: We noticed a lot of designs in the New York Fashion Week that could have done just as well on men as they looked on the women. Androgyny is not a new concept, but this is the first time we’re seeing possibilities for the men as well. London, on the other hand, was much more conservative, and the surprises came mostly in the form of a versatile collection from traditionally niche designers like Burberry.

3. A touch of the new: We still stand by the fact that New York, as a city, is much more expressive than London. Perhaps, as a result, New York’s runways were dominated by elements beyond the visual. Dresses with sound details such as the Paco Rabanne collection took the drama one notch up. That’s one way to get noticed, we think. London, however, lacked such standout elements and more collections were geared towards the practical elements such as wearability.

4. Utility: Actual utility was high on every designer’s list at London. We attribute it to the economy that is floundering back to stability after Brexit, and really has no use for outrageousness. We spotted many more complete outfits in patterns that are far easier to carry off on the street as much as at an event.

5. The return of high fashion: Inspired by the royal wedding, several designers at London have gone after high-street dressing. Christopher Kane’s collection of classic, high-neck silhouettes is just one example. Erdem, too, followed suit.

6. Making everyday look beautiful: In contrast to London’s current demand for royal-wedding-worthy dresses, New York saw a spate of clothes that would be perfect wherever they’re taken. Both Tadashi Shoji and Rebecca Minkoff are proof of that.

All in all, while we loved certain aspects of both Fashion Weeks, there is no denying the fact that New York was higher on the fashion and versatility aspects, while London fared better on the usability of looks. That’s why we love back-to-back fashion events- they give us a chance to take the best from both worlds (or cities, in this case).

What We Disliked:  

We’re just glad that this was one season where the dislikes were far fewer and scattered in between some really stunning hits.

In both fashion weeks, we noticed a clear lack of usable accessorizing. When it did exist, it was sparse and barely noticeable. A great look can be trashed by the wrong accessory. Another aspect where we expected better was the scope for using a variety of different fabrics. Some designers managed to do this and excelled with some very good results (like Naeem Khan at NYFW and David Coma at LFW). But, there was scope to do so much more, as you’ll see from our Spring Summer trend forecast. 

However, that’s all we could find to complain about, and that in itself is saying something, isn’t it?

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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The Big Hits And Glaring Misses From Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019

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#fashionstartup, couture designer, Elie Saab, fashion biz, fashion blog, fashion blogger, fashion brand, Fashion Business, fashion designers, fashion entrepreneur, fashion label, fashion trends, Fashion Week, fashion world, Givenchy, Hermes, Issey Miyake, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Paris Fashion Week, Valentino

We’re finally winding up the whirlwind of fashion events that seem to have occupied our collective attention over the last two months. As the last show of the season, expectations ran high from Paris Fashion Week. Some of our favorite designers didn’t disappoint, while others did just that, and glaringly so.

In today’s article, we discuss the seven designer collections we absolutely loved- both for their vision and easy adaptability. We also present a few misses.

1. Elie Saab: Summer is coming in nice and bright, and Elie Saab at Paris Fashion Week is proof of that. We love the lace details that make summer dresses that much more elegant. Take special note of the use of several different fabrics and accents- a sign of the demanding times to come in fashion. Are you ready to design both workwear and off-time casuals?

2. Givenchy: Givenchy has set new standards for how formal wear must look. Those suits are the very definition of power dressing. We particularly love the use of the silhouette itself to design clothes- it has been a long time since every piece of clothing has not been designed for a mannequin. High waist, big belts, ruffles, full sleeves- all, check.

3. Hermes: The famous fashion house’s Paris collection has received mixed reviews, to say the least. We, however, think the collection has a huge adaptability factor. The jackets and overcoats are almost ubiquitous in nature, and we love ourselves a leather pair of shorts. Whether you like the collection or you don’t, you have to admit that a niche choice of fabric has never been this stylish and universal.

4. Issey Miyake: Miyake is not known for being shy about self-expression. From the villages of Japan (if they still exist) to the modern cities, this year’s collection draws inspiration from every corner of the small yet influential country. The clever choice of colors and fabric lend themselves well to the theme- you know that green coat is meant for the cities. We’re also glad to see flowy pants making a reappearance. God knows we need more of them.

5. Louis Vuitton: Shockingly, LV has received negative to mixed reviews for their Paris Fashion Week show. While we’re disappointed with the general lack of novelty and the brand playing it too safe, we do love some of the dresses. The blue one, for example, starts off as street-style and ends with a clean hemline. Surely an inspiration for designers to try something a tad bit different with their collection.

6. Miu Miu: Formal wear is all set to look different, and Miu Miu is leading the revolution. There’s no denying the fact that this collection is not meant for the faint of heart. But then again, the average Parisienne is not known for being that! Miu Miu has experimented quite elaborately with animal prints, sheer and denim, and we love their use of fabric in so many different ways.

7. Valentino: Most of Valentino’s dresses look like the inspiration for next year’s Met Gala, and that isn’t such a bad thing. For retailers, the key takeaway would be the use of pleats to create form without making them overtly obvious. For everyone else, there is the sheer gorgeousness of the dresses to look at. We can envision some of them as separates- they’d fly off the shelves for sure!

Unfortunately for Paris, it wasn’t all roses. Chanel’s collection came under severe criticism for sheer lack of originality, and we can’t help but agree. Balmain, taking inspiration from a theme they probably didn’t quite understand, tried to go Egyptian and instead ended up all over the place. Perhaps the most disappointing of all was Stella McCartney. After receiving huge media attention post the royal wedding, she couldn’t find a way to make the spotlight work for her and try something new.

But with all misses, we are grateful for these too, because they teach us even more about the consumer’s expectations and how we can stand out.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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The Home Of Haute Couture: Design Highlights From Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2019

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Christian dior, couture designer, design house, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, fashion biz, fashion blog, fashion blogger, fashion brands, Fashion Business, fashion designers, fashion forecasting, fashion trends, Fashion Week, Fendi, Gucci, Max Mara, MFW, Milan Fashion Week, Missoni, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli, runway fashion, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sportmax, Spring Summer 2019, style, Versace

Move over New York and London- Milan has just made its most iconic fashion splash yet. There’s something about the spunky vibe of Milan, on and off its runways, that has made this the destination to watch when keeping an eye out for the bigger fashion houses. We think there’s a lot to be learned and implemented from the Dior and Versace of the world, and being one-of-a-kind is just one of them.

Here’s a compilation of designers and clothes we loved the most at Milan this year. Designers with ambition, take note.

1. Gucci: When Gucci makes a statement, heads turn. Almost singlehandedly, Gucci took clothing from overtly suggestive to plain old, yet standout styles. One look at the whites and tans paired with signature motifs shows us that some fashion houses are more about subtle experimentation than others. The sleeves are the ones standing tall this time around.

2. Christian Dior: When Dior’s in love with mesh, we know that the trend is here to stay. Casual is the name of the game for SS19, and what better way to do it than with one element in each outfit that grabs attention? We particularly love the understated elegance of the models themselves, allowing us to see outfits as they should be. We could take that blue top right there and think of ten different bottoms we can pair it with, using items already in the wardrobe. Now, that is versatility.

3. Fendi: Fendi is one brand that knows how to have fun in the subtlest of ways. The Milan SS19 runway was full of looks ideal for the workplace, and even better for drinks after. These are clothes you can take to meetings and to holidays with equal panache. Peplum gets a new definition that the world will soon come to love, and we’re not complaining about the very versatile handbag/ phone holder/ fanny pack accessory either. In fact, give us just that.

4. Emporio Armani: Armani gets a bit of a ‘not-so-couture’ rep, we think, because of the number of cheap fakes doing the rounds the world over. Imitation is the best form of flattery, so it is safe to assume that everyone adores this label. One look at the shiny jackets that imitate everything from animal skin to a backpack shows us that Giorgio Armani has the uncanny talent for drawing inspiration from just about everything and turning it into some gorgeously wearable works of art.

5. Missoni: It was a relief to see Missoni on the runway, partly because of the dresses that are everyday-casual, and mostly because of the mesh detail done differently. When you’ve had too much mesh, turn to Missoni for some fashionable relief. The careful placement of prints and flowy silhouettes are made for the modern day Bohemian.

6. Roberto Cavalli: What’s with the free-spirited vibes, everyone! Fashion labels always channel the mood of the season, and going by the Cavalli designs, 2019 looks like an excellent year for travel and exploration. Mirror work is not a Middle-Eastern trend alone anymore and can be adapted in the most diverse of ways. For those looking for more subtle statements, foil prints are in, too.

7. Max Mara: Add Max Mara to the list of formal wear collections we absolutely love. The pants are getting shorter, keeping in mind the very diverse jobs that women today hold. These outfits are meant for action in the boardroom. The frills, the colors, the polka dots, the statement belts…we could just go on and on with the little details from this collection that everyone can find a way to adapt into their designs.

8. Moschino: As the ‘LOVE MOSCHINO’ bags prove, this is one label that is not afraid to stand out every single time. And so it is with the Milan Fashion Week Collection. Why say jackets need to be held together with buttons alone? That red dress is going to make a lot of red carpet appearances soon, and a bralette in lace? Yes, please! Moschino’s prints are so commonplace yet so hard to replicate. Standing out and blending in, both are done right in this collection.

9. Versace: Swearing allegiance by florals, Versace has a whole new take on them. Out go embroidered flowers, and in they come in black instead. A base of bright colors adds a significant contrast to a collection that otherwise risks fading out. Versace is known for exploring a woman’s sensuality like no other designer ever can, and the lace camisoles and thigh-high slits, artfully covered in long jackets, prove that point once again.

10. Sportmax: A trip to the Hamptons next year is going to be woefully incomplete without at least one piece from the Sportmax collection. These clothes are what you wear when you head off to a game of golf, or lounging by the beach. Some of the elements like the sleeves are clearly drawn from Scuba gear, while others are more suited to cocktails and sunset. Either way, being outdoors is not going to be the same anymore, and you don’t have to play a sport to be part of the game.

11. Salvatore Ferragamo: The colors of the outdoors are well-represented in the SS19 collection from the house of Ferragamo. These are beiges and tans that have been carefully chosen to represent the outdoors in as understated manner as possible. Paired with tropical prints in similar shades, it works magic simply by complementing the wearer’s skin tone beautifully.

12. Dolce & Gabbana: Occasion wear has been done right with D&G once again. Here’s one design house that is loud, and unabashedly so. Operatic themes are evident, as are carnivals. Suits in gold and silver are most definitely gothic, as are doodle prints with lace. Channeling a bit of the dark side are the corsets and fringes, both of which remind us of Hotel California. With that collection, D&G takes a bow like no other house managed to this time around.

Which of these designers did you absolutely love? What are some details that you’ll be taking away from Milan and into your collections? Tell us in the comments.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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A Toast To The Best Formal and Semi-Formal Styles We Spotted At Lakme India Fashion Week

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Amit agarwal, brand consultancy, design studio, fabrics, fashion brands, fashion designers, fashion labels, fashion show, fashion startup, Fashion Week, formal wear, formal wear and evening wear, freelance fashion designer, garments, Kunal Rawal, Lakme India Fashion Week, runway fashion, Saaksha and Kinni, sheer fabrics, silhouettes, styles, styles and trends

If you’re a fashion aficionado, an aspiring designer or a follower of celebrities, your timeline was probably flooded with images from Lakme India Fashion Week that concluded just a few days ago.  We know because we’ve been digging some of these styles, too.

Here at Fuel4Fashion, we’re huge believers in practicality. Some of the most stunning styles on-ramp often fade away from existence entirely. Some others look great on models but probably not so much on real people in real situations, minus the flashbulbs. That said, three designers absolutely stood out for us and showcased designs that can be adapted into wardrobes.

Take notes, fashion entrepreneurs- your customers will be asking for these styles very, very soon.

1. Saaksha and Kinni

Perhaps the clearest example of a designer’s clarity of thought comes through in this designer duo’s collection for Lakme India Fashion Week this time around. Prints are a very urbane expression of the self- in fact, think back to your ancestry, and you’d be sure to remember one print or one weave that everyone spoke about.

Interpretations of Ikat and Pochampally in 8-bit game pixels is a genius move, we think.

Also, everyone needs space, people!

Flowy fabrics are in, especially for formal wear. In a tropical country like India, and for the sake of comfort the world over, people are seeing the virtue in abandoning the sharp suit for more statement pieces. Think blouses with bell sleeves and prints, printed formal pants with plain shirts, and jackets in a variety of cuts and styles. We’d go so far as to say that you should think of one statement accessory in the collection to lift up all the Boring formal wear that all of us inadvertently own. Excited yet? Thanks, Saaksha and Kinni!

2. Kunal Rawal

We love Kunal Rawal’s collection because it comes as a breath of fresh air in the parched men’s formalwear section this Fashion Week. It’s still super cool to wear formal-ish suits and all-black this festive season too, guys!

Also, come to think of out, wardrobes should always be function over fancy, and while it’s nice to have the flower-embroidered jackets, we all need evergreen pieces that can be adapted to a variety of occasions.

And that is precisely what this collection brings to the ramp, and to wardrobes. We highly recommend including some earthy hues in the formal menswear collections this time. They add a nice touch to an array of blues and blacks.

We also like the idea of using self-designed motifs on pants and jackets for an extra layer of detail. Dinner jackets in shades of orange and burnt umber, details on trousers, and brogues with extra motifs at the toe cap- all recommended.

Did we mention athleisure? A wholly tailored suit with pants that mimic tracks are in right now, and this is a trend you can adapt for both genders with relative ease.

3. Amit Aggarwal

Bringing some much-needed sass to women’s evening wear is Amit Aggarwal. We particularly love his silhouettes because of the sheer global appeal of those gowns. Here’s a cocktail dress that one could pull of absolutely anywhere in the world.

Shades of grey and bronze, a dress separated into coordinates, African culture inspired gowns- is there any better way to go global? Also, grey is a color that is kind to all skin tones, and in all climates, so that’s an added plus too. Think cocktail dresses with one central motif, and add in geometric details.

Another way to adapt Amit Aggarwal’s collection into your stores, apart from the gowns, is to design peplum tops in metallics, tailored pants and thinking of bow pants a la Emma Watson.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram

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