Our guest post about techpacks on Sqetch

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apparel, apparel production, Bill of material, fashion, fashion brand, Fashion Business, fashion designer, fashion illustrations, fashion label, fashion sketches, fashion startup, garment flats, garment manufacturing, grading, measurement chart, patterns, produce fashion apparel, sizing, startup fashion labels, technical design, technical designer, technical specifications, techpack, what is a tech pack

Recently Sqetch invited us to contribute to a blog on Techpacks along with the few other talented designers, since we’ve been doing client projects on these for the past few years. The blog from Sqetch is now live and can be found here. Do read through it!

You can read one of our earlier blogs on techpacks which was also greatly appreciated.

Feel free to connect with me if you have any questions regarding techpacks or need any assistance in creating few for your new collection.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer and Brand Consultant helping fashion brands to create great products from idea to launch. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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Origins of Fashion: Tie-Dye

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apparels, fabric, fashion blog, fashion designers, fashion history, fashion illustrations, freelance fashion designer, garments, Indian fashion, Japanese Shibori, Thailand Mudmee, Tie dye

Tie-dye is a technique in which a garment is tied, folded or knotted in different ways and then dipped in organic or factory dyes to create patterns in the dyed fabric. While many associate the advent of tie-dye to the liberal culture of the hippies in the 60s, the process of tie-dye has been around for over a thousand years, with the first known instances of tie-dye garments dating to the 6th century in India, Japan and Africa.

Indian Bandhini (Courtesy: Indiamart)

Japanese Shibori (Courtesy: Akemi Nakano Kohn) designs

Dyeing as a technique was known to prehistoric man, who used various plant extracts from leaves, bark, flowers, fruits and roots to colour garments. Folding, forming and knotting gave the dye a pattern based on the extent to which the dye penetrated. This created designs which were attractive. In India, one of the oldest form of tie-dye – known as Bandhini – is still found flourishing today. This involves tying the fabric with small knots to created dotted patterns on the cloth. Asian tie-dye techniques such as Shibori and Batik are also popular. The Chinese used tie-dye for garments from the 6th century, and called it “zha ran” or “jiao xie”. These were worn only by priests and nobility, signifying the value and importance given to this technique of garment production. The Japanese used tie dye as far back as 552 AD, and developed the Shibori style, in which certain areas were restricted from reaching the dye, through and intricate pattern of stitching, tying and folding using sticks, rocks, threads and rubber bands. They also used sumi dye to paint certain designs and patterns which became darker after dyeing as compared to the surrounding areas.

Examples of African tie-dye (courtesy: Tictoc)

Mudmee (Courtesy: Mexicali Blues) designs

Africa and places like Peru have also shown historical traces of tie-dyed fabric. In Africa, the Yoruba women of West Nigeria use indigo (a natural plant extract) to dye cloth in various hues, creating patterns of blue shades on the cloth, due to stitching and folding techniques. Ikat, originating in Asia, involves tie-dyeing the yarn of the warp or weft before weaving. Another popular technique known as Mudmee originates from Thailand and the Indochina region, and involves a slightly different style with more subdued colours, generally on a black background as compared to white for most of the other types.

Hippie tie-dye designs (Courtesy: Wheretoget.it)

Hippie tie-dye designs (Courtesy: Wheretoget.it)

Tie-dye became popular in the modern era through the hippie movement of the 60s, which popularised the making of home-made designs and patterns using psychedelic colours. It became synonymous with the liberal culture and freedom of expression, with artist like Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin making it popular among the youth of that generation.

Tie-dye designs from House of Holland (Courtesy: Whowhatwear.com)

Tie-dye designs from Tory Burch (Courtesy: Whowhatwear.com)

Tie-dye designs from Miu Miu (Courtesy: Whowhatwear.com)

Modern tie-dye is mass-produced and largely consists of tie-dye prints, since original tie-dye is difficult to consistently replicate. Designers such as Miu Miu, House of Holland and Tory Burch have made modern tie-dye designs popular among the premium set, reviving a style that has seen a drop in popularity over the last few decades. In spite of the acceptance of tie-dye even among premium fashion designers, it still remains the commoner’s ultimate expression of fashion freedom.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion, the first virtual design studio that caters to new and upcoming fashion design labels with a diverse portfolio of design services. She is a member of the Cherie Blair Foundation’s Women Entrepreneurship Program and has over a decade of fashion industry experience with international labels and start-ups.

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Innovation in fashion industry processes : Smart Tailoring

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apparels, blog, business, colors, consumption, creative, fabric, fashion blog, freelance fashion designer, leadtime, pattern, patterns, Siddhartha Upadhyaya, Smart, Supriya Ghurye, tailoring

For a very long time designers are trying to add new and green innovative elements to lure the customers. They are  also looking  to join the organic revolution taken up so fanatically by the fashion industry in large scale. Recently we were introduced with a concept which recycled milk and coffee beans and dairy products to produce fabrics. Now this new trend known as Direct Panel on Loom technology or smart tailoring is gaining its ground.

Image Courtesy: http://goo.gl/0ocraf
Smart Tailoring-Eco friendly way to look good

Smart Tailoring to look fabulous as well
Image Courtesy: http://goo.gl/JEd56a

Although Smart Tailoring is a not a new trend to the world as it was created earlier by an Indian designer Siddhartha Upadhyaya to increase the efficiency of fabric by as much as 15%.  Also the lead-time, which is the time taken to manufacture an article including queue time, set-up, time run time etc is reduced by at least 50%. This factor has considerably increased the allure of this newly innovated technology as more garments can be produced which equals to profit for the producers.

Saving time, Saving money
Image Courtesy: http://goo.gl/KoFPzl

It’s for this reason that this technique has become so popular that it out shined every other brain-stormed technique on the ramp of the recent held London Fashion Week.

Smart Tailoring on the runways
Image Courtesy: http://goo.gl/Nq8gZx

Smart Tailoring attracting everyone
Image Courtesy: http://goo.gl/JhFTss

When a loom is attached to a computer then the data such as its color, pattern or size gets registered into the computer on its own. After entering the information the loom does the math and estimates the exact number of pieces needed. Then rest of the work like weaving, fabric cutting and pattering can be done in a considerably lesser time. Not only does this method save energy by as much as 70-80 percent but it also reduces immense amount of waste.

That’s the reason the fashion world is so much in love with this new trend. What is your opinion? Will this be hot or not? Sound off in the comments section.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer, Sourcing and Manufacturing Consultant helping fashion brands to plan, design and develop new collections with small quantity garment manufacturing. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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Innovation in fashion industry processes : Part 1- Air Dying

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air dyeing, apparels, dyeing, eco friendly processes, fashion, fashion blog, freelance fashion designer, garments, innovation, sustainability, technology

The lack of innovation in the fashion industry is apparent by the steps the big brands are taking to revolutionize their products. Recently Lewis created the buzz in the market by creating water less jeans that require 96% less water to wash.  Yet another mind blowing technology innovated to save water is Air Dying. This method of air dying fabrics uses air instead of water to pound clothes. Air replaces water to penetrate dyes inside the fibers and it also requires lesser force to dry since water becomes too heavy on the fabrics to later rinse and dry.

Hazardous dying

Apparel industry actually requires a lot of innovation that’s why critiques are quite happy with the technology of Air Dying fabrics. This technology though limited to US and to synthetic materials, can be a big breakthrough for the world in the days to come.  Fashion industry has a big hand in polluting water as each colored fabric requires about 100 gallons of water to dye, in the traditional ways.

Rivers get badly polluted due to industrial waste

The bad implications of marine life are another side effect of this water dying. Thus Air Dying fabrics did really change the face of the fashion industry, in eco-friendly way. Apart from Air Dying fabrics, many other revolutions are required today to make the fashion industry, a sustainable one. There is an increasing need of waste disposal. There are thousands of garments cut and designed every day, not each of them is used and most of them are thrown away in the big bins.

Large bins storing waste cloths

SO what do you think can be the ways in which fashion designers can add a little innovation in their work and save the planet?

Apparel Retail

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analysis, apparels, consolidation, fabric, fashion blog, fast movers., freelance fashion designer, garments, market survey, Merchandise, OTB, replenishment, retail, stock, Supriya Ghurye, tech pack, warehouse

In our previous posts we have seen fashion design, new product development & production planning processes, now let us put on our thinking caps to decide what merchandise goes into which store and in what quantum . We have already seen the range selection by buyer out of the assortment presented by designer in the fashion design process

The buyer studies the technical and economical feasibility of the range based on the last year’s sales trend and prospective opportunities in the current market.

OTB (Opportunity to buy) is deduced based on a range of factors:

1. Season window
2. Budgeted sales for the season
3. Carry forward stock
4. Brand focus for the season
5. Last year sales trend

Buyer can adopt a top-down or bottom up approach to create OTB plan.

Warehouse: Garments are arranged in the most organized manner.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/Bnn1cD

This is done at the deepest level possible : From continent to country to region to city to mall to store to category at the store to classes in that category to subclasses in that class.

There are several hits planned for the season stock buying. As per the hits, PO’s are released to the vendor and accordingly stock is delivered to the brand’s warehouse.

As per stock receipt, the warehouse starts initial allocation to the stores blending the OTB plan with the past and present experience/strategy of the planner for that store. Regular replenishment take place to fulfill the gaps created when a particular option is sold out ie stock is pushed from DC to store weekly.

Garment retail outlet.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/j4vqZ8

Subsequently consolidation of stocks take place from low throughput store to high throughput store to accelerate sale.

Regular market surveys are conducted of competitive brands to analyse market positioning in terms of merchandise. Regular feedbacks are taken from store on the range offered.

At the end of season a review is shared with buyer –seasonal analysis in terms of color, quality , slow movers, fast movers.

This brings an end to our week-long series of articles where we discussed various processes like fashion design process, product development process, production planning process and the last one being the apparel retail process. Hope enjoyed reading our articles.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion, the freelance fashion design studio for apparels that caters to new and upcoming fashion design labels with a diverse portfolio of design services. She is a member of the Cherie Blair Foundation’s Women Entrepreneurship Program and has over a decade of fashion industry experience with international labels and start-ups.

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The garment production process.

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apparels, assembly line, cutter, cutting, fabric, fashion blog, finishing, freelance fashion designer, garment, garments, KEYWORDS: Purchase order, marker, sewing, spreader, Supriya Ghurye, tech pack

In our previous blog we talked about fashion design and new product development, so by now you are aware of the different stages, the garment undergoes before it moves into bulk production.  Let us also peep into the manufacturing units where these garments are processed.

On order confirmation, buyer gives a Purchase order containing stylewise booked quantity with a colorwise and sizewise break up, delivery date to freight forwarder and Dc date, final negotiated cost at which quantity is booked and mode of delivery.

Flow chart of a garment manufacturing process.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/KAsJd5

Time and action plan is prepared based on delivery date. This involves a backward planning from DC date accounting for a lead time for production (cutting, sewing, finishing, washing) based on quantity and capacity slot available at the production unit. Then fabric lead time is estimated depending on fabric order quantity. Lead time for value addition and embroidery processes are also taken into consideration while mapping the T&A.

Fabric consumption is calculated based on quantities booked for production by buyer. Markers are laid out based on sizewise requirement. Marker efficiency is optimized to minimize wastages in terms of fabric and cutting costs. Consequently total fabric consumption is deduced colorwise and bulk order is placed with fabric vendors.

The process that was followed for vendor selection for garment, the same process is followed for fabric vendor selection. Similar samples are submitted to apparel manufacturing vendor in forms of desklooms and fabric swatches. If the buyer has nominated the fabric vendor, then the apparel vendor directly proceeds with bulk fabric order skipping the process of vendor selection

The apparel vendor in turn sends the samples to buyer nominated lab for testing to analyse if it is meeting all requirements and is devoid of any restricted chemicals. Fabric samples are subjected to physical and chemical tests. Lab dips are analyzed for exact shade matching as per buyer’s requirement. Post this, bulk fabric order is placed

Trims requirement is also calculated and order is processed in similar manner after a series of approvals. Thread consumption is worked out based on sample measurements and lab dips are submitted to ensure thread matching with bulk fabric.

Once the bulk fabric starts getting inwarded, it is washed at a pre regulated temperature and conditions. Then it is spread on to cutting tables using automatic spreaders that piles the fabric depending on its nap. Automated cutters/laser cutter which are preloaded with marker cut the garments.

With a pilot run of initial garments, the sewing line is set for bulk production. Garment manufacturing takes place in several  methods: assembly line, modular, batch production depending on the garment under construction. The most suitable method is proposed by Industrial Engineering team.

Assembly line in a garment manufacturing factory.
Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/onIaLp

Most common is assembly line where different parts of garments are sewn by different operators and finally assembled into the final garment.

Simulation model preview of sewing line.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/DqvprC

There are several inline and end line checks that are conducted to ensure the accuracy of measurements, processes.

Garment construction it is a rigorous process that involves a trail of operators who work on specialized machines and give shape to the final garment..

The garments are scanned by the quality checker who checks each garment with the tech pack. In case of slightest flaw, it is returned back to the line for rework.

Along with inhouse QC, external audits are also conducted.

Flow chart of quality check process in a garment manufacturing unit.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/l7krvG

Then the garment undergoes a series of finishing procedures from thread cutting to pressing, setting into right shape.

Finally the garments are packaged as per packing instructions provided by the buyer and contained in cartons and made ready for delivery to freight forwarder (FF) along with all the documentation.

From FF, goods are shipped or aired depending on the mode mutually decided by buyer and vendor.

The story does not end here!!! Keep waiting for the next blog where we will talk about how this merchandise moves to our nearest retail outlet and what all planning goes into it.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer, Sourcing and Manufacturing Consultant helping fashion brands to plan, design and develop new collections with small quantity garment manufacturing. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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The Product development process

Tags

apparels, buyers, client, cost negotiation, fabric, fashion illustrations, fit sample, freelance fashion designer, garment sourcing, garments, pattern, pre-production samples, Product design, product development, proto, Size sets, Supriya Ghurye, tech pack, vendor

In the previous post while we took you inside the design room and tranquil of thoughts from forecast to mood setting to conceptualization of a range. Now we take a trip to the product development department and sampling room of vendors where the range is given final shape before it moves into bulk production.

Product Development: Once the products are selected for the range, pattern generation and product development is eked out in several stages.

Sample garment development process:
Image courtesy : http://www.future-fashion-design.eu/portals/0/Images/ffd_concept.png

First in line is proto sampling in which proto types are developed and required modifications are incorporated in terms of styling, fabric, trims. Sample garments are developed by apparel manufacturing vendors in sync with development sheets or preliminary tech packs offered by the buyers. Buying here refers to the team which is getting the range developed and co-coordinating with the vendors for its brand for forthcoming season. Henceforth the vendor who manages to develop samples at the most optimum cost and stipulated time frame, thereby meeting all the prerequisites of technical specifications and aesthetics is given the final order.

Style sheet :
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/k9vcvC

Post a rigorous process of cost negotiations and order placements, final tech packs are designed with crisp information on fabric construction, its properties(GSM, CPI/WPI), fabric body color, trim details with their positioning, measurement specifications, size chart, illustrations with a clear demarcation of each part and point of measurement. This tech pack is developed by product development team in close collaboration with design team. This is handed over to buying team that posts it to the selected vendor.

Sample teck pack :
Image courtesy : http://www.mypracticalskills.com/tech-packs/tab-1-missy-jr/TechPack-Missy-Jr-2.jpg

The vendor refers to tech pack and develops fit sample taking a stringent note of the measurements. It is sent across to the product development team who cross-checks all the technical specifications and provide required comments in case of discrepancies. Also the measurements are re-evaluated and modified if required and sent across to the vendor for redevelopment. This process continues till a perfect sample meeting all the prerequisites is given a full form. Final patterns used for fit samples are replicated in soft copy and hard copy.

Garment fit session on a live model.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/Sp0rXd

This maps out a route for bulk production with a prior submission of pre –production samples for validating the bulk fabric, trims being employed.

While sampling activities proceed on order confirmation on one hand, there are series of activities that go simultaneously to enable smooth bulk production. Revisit our blog post to know all that goes on till the final garment is crafted and made available at your nearest retail outlet.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion, the freelance fashion design studio for apparels that caters to new and upcoming fashion design labels with a diverse portfolio of design services. She is a member of the Cherie Blair Foundation’s Women Entrepreneurship Program and has over a decade of fashion industry experience with international labels and start-ups.

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The Fashion design process

Tags

apparel manufacturing vendors, blog, fabric, fashion, fashion illustrations, fit sample, freelance fashion designer, mood board, pattern, pre-production samples, Product design, product development, proto, Size sets, Supriya Ghurye, tech pack, technical specifications

Silhouette of roaring 20’s with the fabric drape of 80’s spiced up with embellishments of last summer baked with an innovative theme stirs out a spring 14 walkway skirt.

Product design conceptualization is not the first stage but it is trickle-down effect of a series of steps. These steps are a part of a creative process. To understand the fashion design process we first need to take a look at a typical model of the creative process.

Image courtesy : http://www.dubberly.com/concept-maps/creative-process.html

The development and formulation of a range requires rigorous involvement of 18 to 24 months in typical situation, and involves the following steps which we are going to discuss here.

Fashion Forecast:

The designer simulates upcoming fashion trends for the season by research and analysis of ongoing fashion events like NY fashion show, London Fashion, Paris and Milan fashion show where some of the illustrious designers showcase their collection.

Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/CQFZNJ

Conceptualization:

With a fair idea of forthcoming trends in terms of colors, fabrics, trims silhouettes, a designer conceptualizes a theme. A theme may be a set of emotions or a message that a designer is set to weave through his designs. These themes are then translated on to a board full of images, fabrics, trims etc known as Mood Board which are used for creating a range or a collection. Inspirational images and trims from which the final theme is drawn is called Inspiration Board. Just as a painter portrays his mood on a canvas, a designer pours out his creativity on a mood board that sets a stage for product development.

A typical example of an Inspiration Board.
Image courtesy: http://goo.gl/XcDZ3d

A typical example of a Mood Board.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/tsmiwB

Abstract to real :

Transformation of this array of abstract images into fashion illustrations is done via CAD to assemble a range – silhouette that will fit into that framework of ideas and give a wholesome look to the collection with a due diligence to the brand focus.

Fabric & Trim Selection :

The range is engineered with the right selection of fabric to render the drape required for the silhouette in optimized cost thereby also upholding the functionality of the garment. Inherent fabric properties like its weight, tenacity, construction are determined at this stage. This is in sync with the brand’s image of promoting certain technology or material

Trims, embellishment in the form of hand work, computerized embroidery, treadle work are selected to complement the body fabric with due consideration of costs involved.

Color Selection :

Color palette is selected from the mood board in sync with forecasted trends for the upcoming season. Each color selected brings out a persona of the theme. The selected colors are then matched to the closest pantone shades available.

Color Board.
Image courtesy : http://goo.gl/NV77Ox

Range Planning

While the actual fabric and trim selection is being done, the garment imitation is constructed in muslin and donned on mannequin or the mannequin is draped and pinned in a fabric to visualize the look of garment and consequently remodeled

The number of samples in a line depends on the type of garment, the price range of the brand, the method of distribution and the kind of categories that the brand caters to.  Certain number of garments is planned for each type of fabric selected and for each of the various categories of garment in which the brand specializes in.  A certain proportion of the line is dedicated to basics and a certain proportion personifies high end fashion.

Range Planning.
Image courtesy : Marc Jacobs

Style Selection & Feasibility study.

The line is appraised and ‘weeded’ with a due assessment of financial and production feasibility of the style and the goals and budgets of brand for the season. Intensive focus on cost optimization leads to rejig of styles and material to come up with the most feasible products. This is followed by first cut range presentation of samples produced in actual fabric being reviewed by buyers, retailers, top notches of management depending on the brand format.

So here ends the first phase of range planning for upcoming season, setting a backdrop for the next phase of product development and sampling leading to bulk production. We will very soon give you a glimpse of the latter phases that fabricate the garments in your wardrobe.

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Supriya Ghurye is the founder and owner of Fuel4Fashion. She is a Freelance Fashion Designer, Sourcing and Manufacturing Consultant helping fashion brands to plan, design and develop new collections with small quantity garment manufacturing. Fuel4Fashion social links: Twitter, Pinterest Instagram

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